A KIND OF WINE 02

December 17th 2024

BATCH 02

For our second release, we present a skin-contact orange wine from winemaker Alphart am Mühlbach from the Thermenregion of Austria, featuring artwork by Munich based Illustrator and Photographer Martin Fengel. Alphart, a biodynamic estate led by Lorenz and his family, has a rich history dating back to its founding in 1762. This 2020 vintage Rotgipfler Maischevergoren is an exceptional orange that captivates with its vibrant notes of tropical fruit, blackberries, fresh herbs, and spice, all leading to a distinctive salty finish. An interplay of aromas and rich minerality, shaped by the limestone-rich terroir, makes it one of the most exciting and expressive wines from this region. The Rotgipfler grape, an indigenous variety grown exclusively in this region on just 150 hectares worldwide, offers a rare and distinctive experience. A natural cross between Traminer and Roter Veltliner, the decision to ferment the grapes on their skins pays homage to centuries-old traditions, unlocking structure and a beautifully aromatic profile. The label by Martin Fengel features two playful figures, symbolizing connection, exchange, and the shared moments that wine inspires. Their dynamic design reflects the spirit of togetherness, creativity, and discovery that lies at the heart of this project.

Interview with Lorenz from Alphart.

What inspired you to pursue natural winemaking, and how does it align with your personal values?

Our family has been making wine in Traiskirchen, in the Thermenregion south of Vienna, for over 350 years. We have a deep connection to nature and take our responsibility to handle resources carefully very seriously. Our village and single-vineyard wines are mostly spontaneously fermented, and we have also established a low-intervention wine line. This combines traditional winemaking methods with modern influences. Personally, I am always looking for new projects that fit into our portfolio and reflect our philosophy.

Can you describe your approach to vineyard management and how it differs from conventional methods?

We are certified by “Nachhaltig Austria” (Sustainable Austria) and are currently transitioning to organic farming. This step enables us to work even more efficiently and closely with nature. In the summer, the area south of Vienna can get very hot and dry, so water-saving cover crop management is essential. This ensures our soils remain healthy and fertile in the long term.

What challenges do you face in natural winemaking, and how do you overcome them?

Natural winemaking is a modern trend in the wine world that allows for a lot of creativity, as many aspects are not strictly regulated. While this provides more freedom, it also demands a high level of responsibility. My philosophy is that natural wines must be free of flaws – the pure taste is always the priority. Natural wines are often unfiltered and slightly cloudy, which creates new, exciting flavor profiles. Perfect hygiene in the cellar is absolutely essential to ensure the stability of these wines.

How does the unique terroir of your vineyard influence the character of your wines?

Our soils in the Thermenregion, particularly in Traiskirchen and Gumpoldskirchen, are characterized by fossilized shell limestone. These sparse brown earth soils give our wines their distinctive minerality and intriguing spiciness. Additionally, the cool nighttime winds from the Vienna Woods and the warm daytime influences from Lake Neusiedl and the Pannonian Plain create a diverse aromatic spectrum. This combination makes our wines truly unique.

How do you balance tradition and innovation in your winemaking process?

We strive to combine traditional values with modern innovations. For me, a wine begins as an idea – the vision determines the path. Only by giving our best in the vineyard can we bring out the best in nature. During the summer months, the vineyard is our top priority, as it is in the vineyards where I feel most at home.

What makes the A KIND OF WINE 02 so special?

The Rotgipfler grape is an indigenous variety, cultivated on just about 150 hectares worldwide, all located in our region. It is a natural cross between Traminer and Roter Veltliner. Since Traminer has traditionally been fermented on the skins for centuries, it was only natural for us to ferment a portion of our Rotgipfler grapes in this way. The extended skin contact imparts the wine with a distinctive tropical fruit aroma and a full-bodied tannin structure that makes it truly unique.